ST

 Posted by on June 13, 1999  Kananaskis Provincial Park  Add comments
Jun 131999
 

Alan Kane suggests in his guide book that the name “Squaws Tit” is politically incorrect. Yes I’d say so.

This name won’t stick.

Just for the record, from now on I’ll refer to this mountain as ST.

I felt like I deserved what I got for climbing a mountain with a name that’s so disrespectful, a chunk of flesh gouged out of my left hand.

It was near the summit, and I was down climbing after having gone through a snow patch when WHAM, I did an endo vaulting over my left hand in the process, and tumbling down a shallow chimney.

Where I fell surprised me!!! I
had just down climbed an exposed section when WHAM! .WHAM!. WHAM! .WHAM!

A moment of cold fear
enveloped me, then bloody snow, pain and exhaustion. And ecstasy, in a new and familiar life ….. I love
mountains, they embody this life I
have.2.14.99

The back side of the summit "nipple"

The back side of the summit “nipple”

I was ultra cautious after that, and frankly kind of wasted, so much so that I reached out and grabbed a helping hand to get over a short wall. On the way through Harvey Heights, I got a few looks. My clothes were shredded and bloody from the accident. By the time we got back to the truck I couldn’t clench a fist. My muscles were seizing.
Some salty snacks cured that almost instantly.

Back at the summit though, the highlight for me was climbing a 10 meter vertical chimney on the back of the “nipple”. What fun!

More pictures will come next summer when I go back and climb the chimney again.

Another View. The route goes up the triangular face below the summit, then left around and behind the "nipple"

Another View.
The route goes up the triangular face below the summit, then
left around and behind the “nipple”


A
Canadian is someone who knows how to make love in a canoe.

Pierre Burton

Notes for August 2002

Well the first time was good the second time better.

This scramble and the traverse from Ha Ling to Mount Lawrence Grassi are definitely my favorite Canmore area scrambles.

This time, all went smoothly. I think I noticed that the way was a bit more worn. No doubt people have been traipsing over this trail for the last few years since my first visit.

Close to the summit "nipple

Close to the summit “nipple

The summit chimney seemed less imposing than last time. Things in our memory can take on bigger proportions than they warrant in reality. Funny how that works.

Ha Ha Ha.

Just laugh and the stress goes away.

On the way down I crossed the drainage early and found a path system that took me back to Spray Drive in Harvey Heights. The pictures on this page will give you an idea of how it looks. Kane’s “intervening trees” are for the most part totally unnecessary. If you go up this trail eventually a right fork will take you across the drainage and to an area that is very near the triangular face. Just keep your face looking towards the face.

When it’s east of you, go east up the face.

On the summit was a small rusted lozenge container with a note. It advised that you leave your stash for some guy named Buba or something like that.


T
he American ideal of sexuality appears to be rooted in the American ideal of masculinity. This idea has created cowboys and Indians, good guys and bad guys, punks and studs, tough guys and softies, butch and faggot, black and white. It is an ideal so paralytically infantile that it is virtually forbidden — as an unpatriotic act — that the American boy evolve into the complexity of manhood.

James Baldwin
1924-1987, American Author


W
hite man builds big fire, stands back. Indian builds little fire, huddles close

Source Unknown


W
here there is much light, the shadow is deep.

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
1749-1832, German Poet, Dramatist, Novelist