Mumm Peak

 Posted by on July 20, 1994  Mount Robson Provincial Park  Add comments
Jul 201994
Mumm Peak on the right. The summit is gained across the snow. Photo courtesy of Tom Seto

Mumm Peak on the right. The summit is gained across the snow.
Photo courtesy of
Tom Seto

Well it’s been a few years since this mountain was visited. But I’ll tell you something right now. I am going to go back to Robson Pass, and when I get there, Halleluiah. Even if it takes a life time, I will get back there, and I’m going to bag this peak again, and this time take photos of the 14 meter vertical chimney, and the route along the summit ridge, and between the two peaks. And enjoy!!!

Mount Robson is one of the great mountains of the world and is one of my inspirations and obsessions that have contributed to my creating this site.

Mumm Peak

I went to the left summit first, alone. Then traversed the summit block to the right summit. Next summer perhaps I’ll go back then shoot some photos for you.


When I get there I’ll also finish off Titkana Peak too.

My friend at that time who had come with me to Mount Robson many times, took off before I was ready and although I could have continued to the peak after I caught up to him near the summit, I felt like sticking with my buddy (sahib client) and went down with him instead of continuing.

In retrospect, crossing the flats alone from Robson Pass Campground on the way to Snowbird Pass listening to my usual Robson music (The Band) afforded me a moment that has stuck in my mind over the years. Even though it’s about ten years ago now, I still remember looking across at Mount Robson shrouded in cloud.

Then the clouds parted partially only revealing the banded horizontal strata of the massive Emperor Face of Mount Robson. I was startled to see it like that, even though I had seen it many times before.

I felt native.

Fought for the party to kingdom
come,” sadly told his only son
”Just be careful what you do, it all comes back on you
False witness spread the news, somebody’s gonna lose
Either she or me or you, nothing we could do”

”So don’t you say a word or repeat a thing you heard
Time will tell you well if the truth truly fell
Tarred and feathered, yeah, thistled and thorned
One or the other,” he kindly warned
”Now you look out the window, tell me what do you see?”
”I see a golden calf pointing back at me”

Well, they’d set their … for so darn long, waiting for the end
to come along
… or on the brink, I’d take a choice, swim or sink
False witness cast an evil eye, said I cannot tell a lie
Kings and saints don’t bother me, I’m not alone you see

The Band
Album: Music From Big Pink
Song: To Kingdom Come

Anyways, back to the story.

After I caught up we slid five then had lunch below the ridge top.

I decided to go down with the trend. I didn’t summit this easy peak and was ambivalent.

As for the summit of Titkana Peak, I’ve decided to go back, alone, and have my own moment finally after all those years.

I’ll think of L. Q. Coleman. He went alone on the first ascent in August 1908.

That trip was my second of two that particular summer that took me to Mt. Robson. On the second trip another friend Doug, tried his hand at Mumm Peak, but was unsuccessful due to snow.

He was new to scrambling and also alone on this attempt, but later went on to successfully scramble Mt. Chephren with Tom, a friend of his.

I haven’t heard from Doug since then. He took all of these photos with the exception of Mumm Peak at the top of the page.

Those were taken by Tom Seto when we went to Snow Bird pass in 1986.

Tom’s photo has yellowed with age.

The first trip of 1993 was great. It was so enjoyable that I managed to convince my friend to go back again.

On that first trip, thunder, lightning, stumbling dying deer, and “God damn Virginians” (must be said into a water flask while drinking so as to resonate) were part of the lore of the voyage. One of the Virginians was a loud piano key toothed fellow who when hearing about my summit exploits asked, “are you CAANADEEANE”?

The next day I watched as the roped party turned back at the chimney. Redemption was sweet. Please don’t get me wrong, I love American’s, just not that one.

Hi-Res photos

Hi-Res photos of the Robson area. All images are Copyright to + Canada’s Mountains © 2016-17 and I can find duplicates so don’t even try.

Kinney Lake

Kinney Lake

Robson Glacier

Robson Glacier

Kinney Lake

Kinney Lake

Panorama of the Robson Cirque

Panorama of the Robson Cirque

Hang around, Willie Boy,
Don’t you raise the sails anymore.
It’s for sure, I’ve spent my whole life at sea
And I’m pushin’ age seventy three;
Now there’s only one place that was meant for me:

Oh, to be home again,
Down in old Virginny,
With my very best friend,
They call him Ragtime Willie.
We’re gonna soothe away the rest of our years,
We’re gonna put away all of our tears,
That big Rockin’ Chair won’t go nowhere.

Slow down, Willie Boy,
Your heart’s gonna give right out on you
It’s true, and I believe I know what we should do.
Turn the stern and point to shore,
The seven seas won’t carry us no more.

Oh, to be home again,
Down in old Virginny,
With my very best friend,
They call him Ragtime Willie.
I can’t wait to sniff that air,
Dip’n snuff, I won’t have no care,
That big Rockin’ Chair won’t go nowhere.

Hear the sound, Willie Boy,
The Flyin’ Dutchman’s on the reef.
It’s my belief
We’ve used up all our time,
This hill’s to steep to climb,
And the days that remain ain’t worth a dime.

Oh, to be home again,
Down in old Virginny,
With my very best friend,
They call him Ragtime Willie.
Would-a-been nice just t’see the folks,
listen once again to the stale jokes,
That big Rockin’ Chair won’t go nowhere.

I can hear something calling on me
And you know where I want to be
Oh Willie don’t you hear that sound
Oh to be home again down in old Virginny
I just want to get my feet back on the ground
Oh to be home again down in old Virginny
I’d love to see my very best friend
They call him Rag-time Willie
I believe old rockin chair’s got me
Oh to be home again

The Band
Album: The Band
Song: Rockin’ Chair

Oh shit, I wish you had been there!

Cinnamon Peak

Cinnamon Peak

Mumm Peak and Mount Robson Gallery