Well I’ve always liked the looks of Mount Edith. It’s just that Alan Kane’s description in his book “Scrambling in the Canadian Rockies” had me worried.
It seems to me though that he often makes the scrambles sound worse than they really are, and in the case of Mount Edith I found this is true.
On the way up I had an ozone buzz. It felt like the nitrous oxide dentists use to make you numb before they do their dirty deed. It could have been the late start. Antioxidants are required in this situation.
It was hot, hot, hot on the way up the lower part of the mountain to Cory Pass. I passed a blond couple and they tried to keep up to me but the heat makes it doubly tough unless you deal with intense pain; its a thing to be relished.
As for the three peaks, the most difficult part for me was the chimney on the north side of the north peak. At one point all you have is a large polished foot hold.
On the way up I had difficulty in getting my left foot onto it. I have an injury to my left knee that restricts mobility in that joint.
On the way down I also had an awkward moment with this slippery foot hold. If you do fall at this point though it would only hurt, not kill, unless you bonk your head, so of course use a helmet. There is an alternate, less steep chimney on the south side.
The Center peak is just business as usual with no surprises to report. Once you are done with the views go down the gully to the south. It’s wide and descends directly to the Center-South col. Once at the col if you look up you’ll see a window in the South peak.
Kane’s book makes it sound small but in reality a small elephant could get through, assuming that it had prehensile appendages.
Once on top the way is easy as the ledges are wide and cairns mark the way. Be careful to look for the logical way, but I can report no real difficulties.
At one point, after reaching the southern most reach of the wall you must go up and into a crack that lies between the wall and a lake. In this flake you must pull yourself up and over a stone. So when you get done with that flake and me then proceed to the next sentence.
After that the way is easy and the final ridge is not particularly scary.
Except for the ledge.
Difficulty, my brethren, is the nurse of greatness –a harsh nurse, who roughly rocks her foster-children into strength and athletic proportion.
William C. Bryant
1794-1878, American Poet, Newspaper Editor
There is one topic peremptorily forbidden to all well-bred, to all rational mortals, namely, their distempers. If you have not slept, or if you have slept, or if you have headache, or sciatica, or leprosy, or thunder-stroke, I beseech you, by all angels, to hold your peace, and not pollute the morning.
1803-1882, American Poet, Essayist
When a noble life has prepared old
age, it is not decline that it reveals, but the first days of
Germaine De Stael
1766-1817, French-Swiss Novelist